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Despite its greenhorn status, I would already rank Son’s menu among my top five omakases in L.A. If that’s the case, just imagine the heights Sushi Sonagi could reach in a year or two. This iconic sushi restaurant in Little Tokyo is consistently packed at the bar and in the dining room. Most come for the unbelievably priced lunch sashimi special, but order directly from the menu or at the bar for an even better experience. The expansive selection of nigiri sushi and sashimi never fails to please.
Nozawa Bar
Los Angeles has the most diverse, expansive and wide-reaching sushi scene in the country, so how does one even begin? In the process of scouting, I visited dozens of Valley strip malls, Little Tokyo shopping plazas and swanky counters in Beverly Hills in search of L.A.’s best sushi restaurants. Countless no-frills strip mall joints make up the San Fernando Valley’s sprawling sushi scene, each with their own devoted local following, but Taku Shimuchi’s Sushi Spot is a countywide standout thanks to its high-quality fish selection and reasonably priced omakase sets. Each carefully made piece of warm rice nigiri at this Tarzana restaurant comes simply, and elegantly, seasoned—no truffle shavings, black caviar or gold flakes here. For the more budget-conscious, the $60 chef’s set course includes a sashimi course, a dozen or so pieces of sushi and a handroll. What I recommend, however, is the market priced omakase, which starts at around $100.
SERVING QUALITY SUSHI
Settle into 15 pieces of terrific sushi that impress even the snobbiest of sushi-goers — the varieties of fish range from familiar cuts to more obscure ones. Sushi bars will satisfy your craving for immaculately cut raw fish. That includes home Dodgers games now that baseball season is in full swing.
Andaz West Hollywood
The toro here is some of the best I’ve ever tasted, but the appetizers and rotating specials, such as dry-aged salmon flown in from New Zealand, are worth consideration as well. By contrast, the omakase offers a mostly cooked, Asanebo-like omakase experience without the time-tested flavors and hot dishes of the Studio City original. Like most other omakase restaurants, there’s no need to pour your own soy sauce—each glistening slice of fish is already lightly brushed by the chef. Los Angeles has a plethora of culinary strong suits, like regional Chinese and tacos of all stripes, but the city’s variety and quality of sushi are nearly as impressive. Nearly every corner of the city — the Valley, the Westside, the San Gabriel Valley, and the South Bay — lays claim to an incredible sushi counter with a veritable master at the helm. There are also casual experiences like hand rolls and old-school takeout spots that reflect the breadth of LA’s sushi culture.
Chef Hiro Yamada also stocks an extensive selection of raw fish, so if you know exactly what you’re in the mood, you can also order a couple two-piece orders of those and call it a day. Either way, I recommend making a reservation for weekend evenings, though you can often call the day of and still find some availability at the bar. Sushi Kisen also does takeout and opens for lunch, if a midday omakase is more your speed. In the last few years, the number of omakase options in L.A. Has likely quadrupled, but I still think this Michelin-starred sushi counter in the back of Sugarfish Beverly Hills delivers the best mix of fun, quality and value.
Delivered to each patron three to four pieces at a time, it’s one of the best L.A.-style omakases. Just be sure to tell your chef when to stop—otherwise they’ll keep the sushi coming. Silver Lake is now home to surprisingly great sushi, all thanks to this tiny Japanese strip mall joint and its sushi-focused sibling, Omakase by Osen, just down Sunset Boulevard. Both perpetually busy restaurants are led by seasoned chef Damon Cho, who's worked at Matsuhisa and Tao. If you're in the mood for actual nigiri and hand rolls, Izakaya Osen has those too—and while they're not the cheapest around, the fish quality and craftsmanship definitely make for tasty à la carte sushi that doesn't break the bank. Also, I definitely recommend reservations, since the restaurant is quite small.
Best Chinese Restaurants In and Around Los Angeles
Head chef Osamu Fujita plays fast and loose with tradition, delivering a transcendent array of generously portioned pieces over approximately two hours—a quicker meal, so to speak, in fine dining terms. In that time frame, you’ll find yourself immersed in a cornucopia of flavors and textures, starting with something like a rich, solid piece of sweet freshwater eel and a sashimi trio consisting of Japanese octopus, New Zealand shrimp and succulent bluefin tuna. This unassuming spot in Arcadia has a versatile lunch sushi set from chef Hiro Yamada (Sushi Gen, Shiki).
Blue Bovine Steak and Sushi House opens in historic Union Station - National Post
Blue Bovine Steak and Sushi House opens in historic Union Station.
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Though it’s hard to turn down freshly pressed Edomae-style sushi, I’m still fond of a good spicy tuna crispy rice once in a while, and I’ve even sampled a few of the city’s vegan sushi options. Omakase menus, and I'm still scouting, since there’s at least a half-dozen more I’ve yet to try. These days, most of L.A.’s very best Edomae-style omakase meals require setting an alarm to snag a difficult Tock reservation, plus the willingness to dine early or on a random, often inconvenient weekday. Not so at Sushi Takeda, which, as of writing, remains surprisingly easy to walk into on any given day for an amazing nigiri-only omakase ($140 per head). Hidden away on the third floor of Little Tokyo’s Weller Court, Hideyuki Takeda’s tiny counter-and-table operation remains somewhat overlooked—even after a recent shout-out in the L.A.
Restaurants
The sub-$40 lunch special comes with nine pieces of nigiri, a cut roll, miso soup, and a few small bites. The price jumps up at dinner, where most opt for the more elaborate, Edomae-style omakase. Three decades in, Tetsuya Nakao’s strip mall sushi bar in the Valley—and its wonderfully nontraditional omakase—has stood the test of time and become veritable L.A.
Helmed by Earl Aguilar, who trained under Note’s Kiminobu Saito, this $190 omakase meal is offered at a small bar or at a few small tables. Like with Note in the Valley, this omakase experience is best with the restaurant wine pairings, which puts terrific wine pours that amplify each piece’s flavor profile. Priced at just $75 per person, the omakase from Hirofumi “Gen” Sakamoto offers one of the best deals in town.
If you’ve got a lighter appetite, ask Yasu-san to halve the amount of rice—of the 37 different L.A. Omakase options I’ve tried, the only place where I worried I’d have to stop the meal early is Inaba. Proper, head to Kaneyoshi on Tuesday nights, where Hirano pops up for a reservation-only collaborative dinner that runs $400 per head.
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